In 2019, Ghana’s tourism board launched the Year of Return where they called on blacks in the diaspora to return to the motherland. Black Americans came to Ghana that year in droves, including many prominent celebrities like Boris Kodjoe, Steve Harvey, Naomi Campbell, and even Cardi B. In recent years, Ghana has continued to stand out amongst other African countries as the place for African Americans from the United States to connect to Africa. Blaxit, the phenomenon where black people from the west, like the United States or the United Kingdom, leave their home country for Africa to escape racial injustice, increased after George Floyd was murdered by a white police officer, for many who seek a better quality of life. If you’re considering moving to Ghana to start your new life, here’s what you need to know.
History of the Return
Visiting Ghana should include a trip to the slave castle of Cape Coast or Elmina. Many of the first enslaved Africans sold into the transatlantic slave trade passed through the door of no return where the waters of the Atlantic ocean meet the shores of Ghana. As a black man, woman, or child in the diaspora, seeing the castles and walking along slavery’s ghost is humbling and life-changing. Many African people in Ghana don’t realize the profound effect of the slave castles and slave rivers on tourists from North America and the UK. For all people who have African blood within them, seeing this place is learning beyond the textbooks to see what history was really like.
Working in Ghana
For westerners coming to Ghana to work, expats may find the job market is less than warm. In order to work as a non-citizen, you’ll need a work permit and it’s easier to find a job in Ghana with an American company. They will facilitate your permit application. Alternatively, working remotely in the United States while living in Ghana is a great option. It allows you to earn in dollars and spend in the local currency, which is the Ghanaian Cedi.
As a non-resident, competing in the local job market is a major issue. Unemployment is high, even for Ghanaians with master’s degrees. So competition is fierce. Also, although the official language is English, you’ll likely not know the local language, and those language barriers can make employability harder in addition to the permit application process.
Living in Ghana
Most people who travel to Ghana will enter on a tourist visa. After 30, 60, or 90 days, depending on the stamp at immigration upon entering, you’ll need to apply for an extension to that entry visa. Failure to keep current can incur overstay fees and be a general headache. When staying more than 90 days, it becomes necessary to apply for a non-resident ID card. This permits non-citizens to register their stay with the local government. It does not, however, excuse you from renewing your visa. Again, don’t let it lapse. If you know you want to move to Ghana, then you’ll want to apply for a residence permit. As a permanent Ghanaian resident, you won’t have to go through the process of regular renewals and fees.
Getting Ghana Citizenship
For most people who are interested in moving to Ghana, citizenship is better than applying for and renewing a residence permit. Citizenship in Ghana is granted by birth, by blood, or by marriage. Without one of those things, the process of applying through Right of Abode is lengthy and more difficult. Despite the call for those in the African diaspora to come home, the Ghanaian government hasn’t made obtaining dual citizenship any easier. Holding a Ghana passport does make it easier to travel to another west African nation. But, truth be told, the process to file for the Right of Abode to obtain citizenship in Ghana is harder than in another African country. Many expats are getting citizenship in countries where showing ancestral roots of any kind provides an easy pathway to citizenship.
The government of Ghana, under Nana Akufo-Addo, the president of Ghana, has vowed to work with the Ghana Immigration Service to make it easier to gain citizenship for people of African descent in the diaspora.
Where to Live in Ghana
Ghana is a diverse country with lots of viable places to stay, from ocean cities like Cape Coast, to the cool mountains like Aburi, to the lush landscapes near the rivers near Lake Volta. There is a lot of diversity in places to stay. Most people who come to Ghana stay in the capital city of Accra. It allows you to access all the western amenities including western grocery stores, restaurants, and other expats. Some of the most popular neighborhoods within the Greater Accra area for expats include East Legon, Airport Hills, and Osu. Property in these areas are in high demand, which means you’ll have to come prepared with a packed pocketbook.
With that said, there are a lot of alternatives. Most of these places outside of city-center will not cost as much money. There are some government land schemes in the Ashanti region to provide free private land to those in the diaspora as part of building up the country’s fast-growing economy. Although these places do not have as strong an infrastructure, they are a good place for investors and those planning their Blaxit.
Finding Housing in Ghana
When it comes to housing in Ghana, there are a variety of house types and options available. Most people will have the greatest success working with a real estate agent. They can ensure you are working with home or landowners and avoiding non-decision makers. There are some additional considerations when choosing where to live. Traffic is a huge hindrance for most. You can spend long hours in the car when traffic is thick, so moving to a place with your favorite amenities nearby will save you tons of time.
Going to School in Ghana
If you plan to move with kids, you’re probably wondering what Ghana schools are like. There is no shortage of private schools available, including lots of international schools that have Cambridge and American curricula. There are not a lot of extracurricular activities for kids to join in on and that can make picking the right school critical. In fact, you may want to hold off until after you find a school to find a house to rent or buy. This ensures you aren’t sitting in gridlock traffic every day. Public transportation is not as established in Ghana. That means traffic can be horrendous in certain areas during rush hour. Looking for a school-to-home commute with less traffic is a good idea as well. If you have your eye on a specific private school (because you aren’t planning to have your kids attend the local public schools), then look for a house or apartment nearby and save yourself sitting in the car with antsy kids.
What’s It Like Shopping in Ghana
Most Ghanaians eat more naturally than Americans. They shop often at the local markets, which provide food that was caught, killed, or picked that day. There are plenty of western grocery stores as well if you are looking for some of the comforts of home. The import costs are steep, though, so plan on an increase in your weekly grocery budget if you prefer these types of staples.
As for clothing, there are shops with western clothing. They, too, are taxed and absorb importation costs. Finding a variety of sizes for certain items can be difficult. If you need special sizes, like extra tall, long, or short, be ready for a challenge. You can always have clothing made in Ghana, and the prices are relatively affordable for the quality.
Is Ghana Safe?
Ghana boasts a friendly and welcoming culture that is known to make visitors feel at ease. The country is a melting pot of various ethnic groups, each with its unique customs and traditions. Ghanaians are known for their hospitality and kindness, and visitors are often treated with warmth and respect. While the crime rate in Ghana is relatively low, it’s still important to take precautions and be aware of your surroundings. As with any destination, it’s advisable to keep your valuables safe and avoid walking alone at night. Additionally, be sure to follow the local laws and customs to avoid any unnecessary run-ins with local law enforcement officers. While Ghana is generally a safe and peaceful country, it’s always best to exercise caution and common sense.
Ghana is consistently voted one of the safest countries in Africa. With that said, one of the annoyances of life in Ghana is dealing with the local police officers. A police encounter in Ghana is not typically dangerous and you’ll almost never have to worry about loss of life when dealing with them. With that said, it’s not unusual for the police to ask for bribes.
Is There Healthcare in Ghana?
Ghana has established a national health insurance scheme, so there is healthcare in Ghana. With that said, you may want to seek out hospitals in your area that are able to provide you with the level of service and know-how that you’re accustomed to. There are several western-like medical facilities and doctors that can provide you with quality health care at a fraction of the cost and without carrying expensive insurance. There is not, however, a solid emergency services infrastructure in Ghana. For some people, that can be a concern and something to consider prior to moving. You may want to maintain private health insurance for emergencies or keep an emergency fund in your local bank account. Cash is king in Ghana, even with health care. If you don’t have cash, you may not get care. Plan accordingly.
Countries Near Ghana to Visit
Ghana is surrounded by mostly French-speaking countries. To the north is Burkina Faso which is probably the least stable of the neighboring countries. To the west and east, you’ll find Côte d’Ivoire (Ivory Coast) and Togo. These countries are safe and have a lot to offer visitors. Côte d’Ivoire is known for its beautiful beaches and lively nightlife, while Togo is a land of rich culture and traditions, with attractions such as the Voodoo Market in Lomé and the stunning waterfalls of Kpalimé. Both countries offer delicious food and unique cultural experiences that are worth exploring.
If you’re looking for a more adventurous trip, a visit to Burkina Faso may be worth considering, despite its political instability. The country is home to beautiful national parks, such as the W National Park, where you can spot elephants, lions, and other wildlife. You can also explore the vibrant capital city of Ouagadougou, which offers a range of museums, art galleries, and local markets. Overall, Ghana’s neighboring countries are worth exploring for those who want to experience the rich culture and natural beauty of West Africa and the adventure of exploring a new country.
RECAP: Moving to Ghana
Moving to Ghana can be exciting. To prepare for the move, consider building your network even before you move. Join Ghana Facebook groups to build your sense of community even before you start packing. These groups, and watching videos like those on Expat Life Ghana, can help minimize the culture shock and better prepare you for your move. From arriving at the international airport to exploring all the nuances of your new environment, being part of life in Ghana and exploring the African continent is a great thing.
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